For Love of Roses, LLC
Rose Planting Instructions
Congratulations! A shipment of high quality four month or older miniature and/or miniflora roses from For Love of Roses LLC is on its way to you. Keep in mind that your new roses are grown in our greenhouses which are covered with a 50% shade cloth from May until October. It is imperative that your roses NOT be planted immediately. Carefully remove each rose from the carton. Roses are either wrapped in Kraft paper with the roots and potting mix wrapped securely with a heavy duty commercial grade plastic wrap or shipped in their growing container which is covered with a plastic bag. Carefully remove the Kraft paper or plastic bag. If the root ball is wrapped with plastic wrap, punch 3 or 4 pencil size holes in the bottom of each plastic wrap. This will allow drainage if watering becomes necessary prior to planting the rose. All roses are lightly watered prior to packing for shipment so watering should not be an issue for three to five days after receipt predicated on the temperature where you reside and the time of the year the roses are received. Feel the potting mix with your fingers and only water if absolutely necessary. You can keep your roses in the plastic wrap for several weeks before planting if need be provided you water the rose(s) as necessary.
On occasion Powdery Mildew may show lightly on some varieties that are more prone to the fungal disease than other varieties. This is a result of temperature swings in transit. We recommend that you wipe the mildew off with a wet cloth or your fingers. Once you condition the roses you can begin your normal spray program.
A very large majority of rose loss is the direct result of either over watering or under watering and more often than not it is usually both. If you have to water, only use about one cup per plant at this time. Marginally shocking a rose once by not watering it for a few hours after it begins to show signs of wilting may prove beneficial but doing so repeatedly and then drowning the plant in water afterwards will surely lead to the demise of your fine rose; this we do not guarantee against. A little bit of TLC will go a long way toward insuring your rose(s) will prosper and provide you with many years of enjoyment of our National flower.
After you have determined that your roses are either in need a light watering or no watering is necessary, place your roses in an area that is bright but completely out of direct sunlight. Your roses have experienced a mild shock during transit and keeping them out of direct sunlight for a short period of time will help condition them to your particular micro-climate. Keep them out of direct sunlight for 3 to 5 days checking daily to see if they need watering. Once you have conditioned your roses, gradually introduce them to direct sunlight over a 3 to 5 day time frame going from 2 or 4 hours of direct sunlight the first day and working up to an entire day of sun light on the last day. In our opinion, roses perform best when exposed to direct morning sunlight and sit in dappled shade from about 1 or 2 o’clock on in the afternoon. If this is not possible, choose a Southern or Eastern exposure in order that your roses will receive 4 to 6 hours of direct sun light each day. Afternoon sun is not your roses’ best friend (due to the suns angle) but if that is what your yard offers your roses can still thrive.
Planting your roses correctly is another area that will insure many years of success and rose enjoyment. Do not plant your roses during hours of bright sun light and high temperatures (90 degrees or higher) as this will only shock the rose(s). The ideal time to plant your rose bush is on a gray overcast day when rain is forecast either later for that day or the following morning. If this is not possible (you live in an area that does not receive much rain) then plant your roses an hour or two before dusk preferably not in the direct rays of the evening sun. By timing the planting you will help minimize the shock your rose(s) will receive. Roses are hardy but following our instructions will almost guarantee that your rose bush will thrive.
We recommend that all miniature and/or miniflora roses be grown in a container the first year. This is particularly important for those who live in areas that typically reach 100 plus degrees temperature in the summer. Containers between 3 to 7.5 gallons are ideal for the first year for own root roses. All of our 600 plus exhibition miniature and miniflora roses are container grown ranging from 3 gallons up to 20 gallons and more in size. For instruction for planting your miniature and miniflora roses in containers follow the instructions for planting the roses in the ground obviously skipping the digging of the hole. If you are new to roses and need additional help, we will gladly guide your through the steps. Give us a call at (330) 360–8510 any evening after 6:00 PM Central Time.
When the time is right to plant your rose in a bed, dig a substantial hole approximately 12” to 16” wide and 16” deep. Place about 3” or 4” of shredded hardwood mulch in the bottom of the hole; DO NOT use pine needles. Based on our experience and observation, the roots of your rose bush will seek out the mulch. On top of the wood mulch we recommend two choices; either a good mixture of 1/3 each of clay laden garden soil, leaf or mushroom compost and builders sand or a good potting mix such as Pro Mix BX or Miracle Grow potting soil. We further recommend that you check the pH of your potting mix as some products are more acidic than is preferred. You can add dolomite lime in order to correct the pH. Pro Mix BX and Miracle Grow potting mix tends to render pH readings very close to 7 which is contrary to what many exhibitors recommend but is what we prefer for all of our exhibition roses.
Fill the hole about ½ full with the mixed soil/potting mix and then place your new plant on top of the potting mix/soil. Check to see if the amount of soil/potting mix that was placed in the hole needs to be adjusted so that the soil line of the plant received will remain consistent with or slightly below in the new hole. Adjust as necessary and then add a 1½ cups of Mills Magic Rose Mix or comparable organic fertilizer spread evenly around the planting hole. Then lightly sprinkle a moderate amount of soil/potting mix over the fertilizer; just enough to lightly cover the fertilizer with a quarter of an inch of potting/soil mix. Next, remove your new plant from the container or unwrap the plastic wrap being careful not to disturb the root ball. Place one hand at the bottom of the root ball and the other hand at the top of the soil where the canes have emerged and gently place the plant in the center of the recently partially filled hole. Fill in the hole with soil/potting mix to about two inches above the soil line. Gently pat (DO NOT TAMP DOWN HARD) the soil/potting mix to lightly firm it at the top.
Next, you want to gently and preferably from a hose that has a bubbler attachment to a water wand, slowly water the newly planted rose. If you are more than an hour from sunset and the temperature is above 60°F, don’t be concerned about getting the leaves wet as they should dry sufficiently before sunset. If it is colder than 60°F or you have less than an ideal amount of time before the sun sets, then you do not want to get the leaves wet. If you do not have a water wand with a bubbler attachment you can use a garden hose without a nozzle attachment and very gently water in your new plant. We have found that watering works best if you do it three times a few minutes apart. All told you should be adding about or close to one gallon of water to the soil or potting mix. Chances are some settling will occur. Simply add additional soil/potting mix to bring it back up to or slightly above the soil line. Monitor the new rose(s) for the next few weeks watering as needed but being very careful not to over water your new roses.
As soon as you see bud eyes begin pushing out new growth, we recommend adding about one tablespoon of Bloomcoat or comparable timed release fertilizer around the drip line of your rose. We also recommend covering your rose beds with either hardwood mulch or better yet finely ground up oak leaves. We do not recommend adding mulch or leaves to the top of potted roses as it will make it difficult to visually observe when watering is required. Now that your new rose(s) have settled in and are growing well, go ahead and fertilize and spray them with pesticides as you would any other rose in your garden. Remember to always water prior to fertilizing and/or spraying your roses.
We hope that you have found our instructions informative. We have found over the years that these planting instructions work for us in our exhibition containers/garden.
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